When I went up on deck this morning to photograph the sunrise, it was still dark and we were just passing beneath a contemporary suspension bridge, one of those with a tower in the center with cables splayed down to the roadway. It must have been over an outer harbor for we still had far to go to enterr the harbor at Incheon (where General MacArthur led an invation during the Korean War, an invation that turned the tide for the United Nations forces). By the time it was light enough to see, and when it was apparent that the sunrise would be fairly ordinary, we were approaching a narrow lock – just wide enough for the captain to thread the ship through, very slowly and carefully. As we approached the lock, a huge gate that barred entry slid from left to right, opening the lock. After we were in the lock, the gate at the entrance closed and a gate opened at the other end, where we were headed. This allowed us entry into the larger Incheon harbor. I was so entranced by this manipulation, watching and hearing the captain on the flying bridge, that I completely forgot the sunrise.
There was some delay getting off the ship since Korean Officials – all stern and purposeful – searched all the bags we were carrying ashore. One of them took a perrfunctory glance in my camera bag and waved me through. A prime example of form over function. And a way to keep lots of people employed.
During the hour drive from Incheon to Seoul, our guide ttold us how to say good morning (or afternoon, or evening) in Korean: “Anyo haseo.” She also explained that we could call her by her family name – Kim, the most popular family name in Korea – or use her other name, Lucy. During the course of the day, I used both. She also told us that the population of Seoul (population facts always interest me) was 12 million, and that represents 26% of the total population of South Korea, which has moved from a food exporting country to one that makes and exports semi-conducters, TV’s, i-phones and many other electronic devises. This country looks prosperous and Seoul looks like any other city in the world, even though it is over 600 years old. Much of it was rebuilt in the 1950’s, after what we call the Korean War.
Our first stop was at the Deokusugung Palace, a series of buildings, all constructed in Buddhist temple style and each for a particular purpose – a throne room where the king listened to complaints from his subjects, a pavilion for entertaining, etc. It was a lovely day, warm and clear, and I took many photographs and climbed up and down many stairs. (I seem to be having trouble with my balance.) After wandering around, and through, many of these buildings, all built in strict accordance with the principles of feng shui (and many destroyed by fire in 1906 and then re-built), we watched a changing of the guard ceremony at the entrance gate to the palace grounds. It was very impressive and unlike other changing of the guard ceremonies I’ve seen in other countries, involved a huge cadre of people – probably 60 or 70 – all dressed in period uniforms. There were many shouted gutteral directions and ritual beats on an elaborate standing drum, all very formal and solemn. We were held back behind ropes in order to allow this ceremony room to take place and I got many pictures that, in addition to the ceremony, contain part of a head, or ear, from people standing in front of me. (Just to demonstrate the schizophrenia of the world, next to the entrance gate where all of this was taking place was a Dunkin Donuts.)
Next, to the seemingly ever-present and extremely crowded market street where we were turned loose for an hour or so to shop. I waited most of the time, resting on a concrete bench, watchingthe parade of people going by. It seems that the current Korean generation is enamored by brightly colored sneakers – shocking pink or yellow – and by plaid shirts, like the cotton ones we wear in winter. They must be very hot at this time of the year. But they appear to be very in, very chic, among the young. Our guide had explained that this was an official “walking day” (Asians seem to have a day for everything), which was why the streets were so crowded. Not having any Korean wan, I couldn’t buy anything anyway. Just as well.
Down a narrow alley-like street, we found our restaurant for organized lunch, included with the tour. It was far from as glamorous as our Chinese lunches have been but as usual, we sat at long tables with cooking surfaces in the middle, all sizzling with pieces of beef that were not very good – mostly gristle. There were many other what I’m sure were traditional Korean dishes, all rather unrecognizable, and not very good. I concentrated on my sticky rice and beans, steam cooked in a lotus leaf-wrapped package, and something that looked, and tasted, like a Korean version of cole slaw. It was very filling and quite colorful.
Our last stop for the day was at the Museum of Korea, a very modern pile with glassed display cases and subdued lighting. Some of the artifacts were very beautiful – the king’s kimonos, for instance – and we were allowed to take pictures but without flash. My camera works surprisingly well under these circumstances and I got some great shots – jewelry, clothes, ceramics, and the king’s two cars, all shiny maroon and gold.
After the museum, we stopped, briefly and for photographs only, at the presidential palace, oddly called “the blue house.” When I asked our guide why blue, she said, “Well, you have your white house so we have our blue one.” As though this were an answer. Okay.
I dozed on the hour’s ride back to Incheon and our ship, only distrubed by the beeping of a warning when it was time for our driver to shift gears. We had welcoming drums when we reached the ship but I was tired and headed right for my suite.
Tonight was another formal night on board and I almost skipped it, thinking I was too tired to get all dolled up for the captain’s farewell party, but after a shave and a shower, I felt better and joined by 93-year-old friend, Julia, for a drink in the bar. Dinner was simple and good – foie gras, sorbet and lamb chops (no dessert) and so to bed.
But stay tuned.
And meanwhile, back is fall colored Ohio, it's colonoscopy day!
ReplyDeleteYea!
Dzai jan
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